The Story Of The Bizzare Farina Underground Bakery In South Australia

It’s hard to describe the feeling of seeing the “Bakery Baking Today” sign at the turn-off to the Farina Historic Township, in the middle of the South Australian Outback.

How could you NOT think you’re delusional from all the driving? After all, it’s 600 kilometres north of Adelaide, A.K.A. the middle of nowhere.

But as you drive along the unsealed road (you need a 4WD to go), you’ll start noticing a few vehicles gathered around the cluster of old buildings…

And, as you get closer, the smell of freshly baked bread will be enough evidence to show that no, you’re not crazy at all.

The Farina Restoration Group run this outback bakery 8 weeks per year, from late May to late July. Volunteers come to help run the bakery and to slowly restore the historic town during this time.

But… why is there an operational bakery in the middle of the South Australian Outback?

How did the Farina underground bakery come to be?

There was an unusual amount of rainfall in the area during the late 19th century.

This led a few farmers to believe that the region was good for growing wheat and barley, which led to the foundation of the Farina Township in 1878.

It quickly became a popular town, even being a railhead from Port Augusta for a while before the line extended to Marree and Alice Springs.

The old Farina town peaked in the late 19th century. By then, 600 people lived there and the town had several buildings – the iconic underground bakery, hotels, breweries, a bank, a post office, a school, a church, and even a brothel!

But after a few decades, the typical arid climate returned, bringing drought and dust storms with it.

This inevitably led to people slowly abandoning the town. It was fully abandoned in 1967 and even the rail line was removed in the early 90s.

The restoration of Farina

The restoration process started in 2009, after the foundation of the Farina Restoration Group (FRG).

The underground Bakery was the first building to be restored to full working order. It allows visitors to experience the bakery pretty much as it was back in the late 19th century – it even has the original Scotch oven!

The oven’s underground location probably also helped to preserve it. One of the many storyboards around the ruins mentions the destruction of outside dunnies in violent storms. 

The ultimate goal of the FRG is to turn the town into a tourist attraction where visitors can experience the lifestyle of Outback South Australia from the 1880s to the 1960s.

Apart from partnerships with various organisations and professional stonemasonry, all work on-site is done by volunteers.

The volunteers stay on site in the campground for the annual restoration activities while the bakery is operating.

If you’re interested in volunteering, go to the Farina Restoration Group Facebook page. They usually open registrations for the next season in November-December.

Are the baked goods of the underground bakery actually good?

They’re absolutely top-shelf!

The old Scotch oven in the underground kitchen turns out pretty much everything – fresh bread, sausage rolls, sweet treats, delicious pies, pasties, and the BEST cream buns I’ve ever had.

It blows my mind how 80 years of disuse didn’t seem to have affected the oven’s effectiveness!

Stay at the Farina Station campground

The Farina campground is open year-round, unlike the bakery!

It has pretty much everything for a nice bush camping experience – barbecues, fire pits, toilets, and hot showers.

It’s an excellent stop before the rough tracks further north. It works on a “first-come, first-served” basis (no bookings). Get the latest prices on their website, here.

Top Tips

Check the Facebook page of the FRG and/or their website to know the specific dates the bakery will open – often from late May to late July.

Farina is in the Lake Eyre Basin, so the best time to visit is in the cooler months – between April and October.

Most people visit it in winter, escaping from the cold temperatures of Adelaide. So, there are a few great spots you should definitely stop by (or spend a few days at) on your way to Farina, such as:

• Port Augusta

• Flinders Ranges

• Copley

• Lyndhurst

Did you know?

Farina town was named as such because “Farina” is the Latin word for flour. The expectation was for it to become the “Granary of the North.”

Sadly, the unpredictable climate, remote location and lack of water ultimately meant its decline, despite its one-time position as the railway head for all northern lines.

The first baker was Edward Taylor Slee, who opened the Farina bakery in 1893.

FAQs

The bottom line

This arid part of the South Australian Outback is the driest part of the driest state in the driest continent on earth. 

As you drive to and from Farina, it’s easy to see the hardships faced by the early settlers in these remote outback towns. After all, today’s green and fertile pastoral country could be tomorrow’s dust bowl.

But FRG’s hardy bunch of volunteers are putting Farina back on the map, thanks to this unique Bakery!